Park Avenue in Portsmouth has a wonderful range of eateries, and Scampi, which just opened last Sunday, is a terrific addition. Our son was off at a birthday party this afternoon, so we decided to check it out. I'm no restaurant reviewer, but I found the food excellent and the prices reasonable.

Those who remember the Sportsmens Club will find the building familiar, but there is a fresh redesign inside, with soft contemporary colors on the walls. The waitstaff is friendly and attentive, and they seem to have thought through making families comfortable. While we were there, several groups with kids were seated in the smaller room on the west side of the building where there are kid-friendly booths.

The menu hits a sweet spot between Italian and seafood, and we tried two crossover dishes that were both delicious, a scallop scampi over pasta, and a spinach and garlic ravioli topped with jumbo shrimp in sauce with a hint of lemon. The scallops were done just right and the shrimp was grilled perfectly. Entrees were in the mid-to-high teens, and come with a choice of sides ranging from salad to broccoli raab.

In another kid-friendly touch, the children's menu is priced at a very reasonable $3.95, so grownups can have a nice dinner and not feel like they're overpaying for a plate of chicken nuggets.

Of course I had to try the chowder, and it's distinctive — New England style, but not with a thick base. It's more butter and milk than cream, reminiscent of an oyster stew. Really good.

Didn't really have room for desert but, okay, had it anyway. The Crème brûlée was an outstanding implementation, with a satisfyingly thick, crackly layer of caramelized sugar over smooth, eggy custard.

Dinner for two with dessert (no drinks) about $50. We'll definitely be back, and next time we'll bring our son too.

Resources:
Scampi 657 Park Ave (401) 293-5844
Google map
Sakonnet Times story